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Gardinier

Crédits : Lina Tchalabi. Translation: Jill Harry. Photos: PAM Studio & Mathieu Garçon

A subtle balance between memory and modernity

Le Taillevent is far more than an historic restaurant. “It is a majestic place that comes alive thanks to its cuisine,” says Executive Chef Giuliano Sperandio.

Haute cuisine is to France what haute couture is to fashion: a living heritage that continues to fascinate and inspire the world. Recognised by UNESCO, the “gastronomic meal of the French” bears witness to its uniqueness. Since the initial imprint made by Georges Auguste Escoffier (1846-1935), it has built its reputation on the excellence of its techniques, the irreproachable quality of its ingredients, and the incomparable richness of its terroirs.

THE EPITOME OF EXCELLENCE

Asked about his own definition of haute cuisine, Chef Giuliano Sperandio replies unequivocally: “It is found in French cuisine”. A statement that ignores trends, recalling the value of long expertise coveted by all four corners of the world. “While Le Taillevent was one of France’s first great tables, it is now one of its finest contemporary signatures.” France remains a benchmark, as witnessed by prestigious awards such as those presented by the Michelin Guide. For more than a century, it has paid tribute to excellence by awarding highly-rated distinctions. With two Michelin stars, Le Taillevent embodies the very essence of the French art de vivre.

SEVENTH HEAVEN AT TABLE

Le Taillevent won the distinction of being one of the first restaurants to reintroduce a ceremonial style of dining. Its front room teams orchestrate a timeless ballet with impressive mastery: plating from side tables, the traditional flambée, wine decanting by candlelight, sauces served right on time. These gestures contribute to spectacular staging in which precision targets accuracy rather than a visual effect. It is this alchemy between high-quality service and care lavished on guests that ensures, still today, the prestige of top-notch addresses.







The challenge extends well beyond the ovens.
PAYING TRIBUTE TO HERITAGE

While these gestures live on, dishes have evolved. Rich and opulent for many long years, they are now lighter thanks to influences like those asserted by the Italian Chef. An evolution that remains true to the essence of French haute cuisine: “It is bourgeois cuisine in its ingredients and sauces, which must be comforting,” he explains. While some chefs struggle to accept this heritage, Giuliano Sperandio embraces it fully. “It is not about pitting tradition against modernity.” His approach is not to re-visit, but to rely on collective memory: “I take French cuisine as my starting point, then create my own recipes guided by instinct and experience”. As demonstrated by this creation: a sauce with three peppers, deglazed with cognac and thickened with a touch of cream, to accompany grilled langoustine and crisp sweetbread. Creative inspiration from the classic fillet of beef, summoning red-white-and-blue markers without replaying the original version.

THE FUTURE PLAYED OUT BACKSTAGE

For Giuliano Sperandio, the challenge extends well beyond the ovens. Perpetuating excellence in French haute cuisine depends above all on training, transmission, and the commitment of every team member.“At the ripe old age of 80, the restaurant continues to shine thanks to the passion and devotion of its teams,” he concludes. This exceptional longevity is not a matter of chance, but proof that tradition consists of perpetual movement.

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