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Gardinier

Crédits : Lina Tchalabi. Translation: Jill Harry. Photo: Agence Pancake

Pearls for tsars

After being enthroned in all majesty in imperial buffets, caviar is now a laid-back guest on all occasions.

Its very name conjures up an image of opulence and sumptuousness. For centuries, caviar - sturgeon roe from the Caspian Sea - was a privilege enjoyed by Russian tsars. Before being reserved for crowned heads, it was however consumed at Orthodox celebrations. In the 17th century, caviar won an imperial monopoly under the reign of Alexis I, Tsar of Russia, and its noble varieties such as Beluga were served in the Winter Palace. A century later, Peter the Great encouraged its consumption beyond the court, introducing it at official banquets and to foreign diplomats. European travellers relished its delicate, salty taste, telling all about the rules that add to its enjoyment. It was not until the early 20th century that caviar made it to Paris. The capital’s most fashionable venues grabbed hold of it, making it part of France’s high gastronomy. Between two shows, the Parisian elite made Black Gold a special treat for high society, in a city that loves all that sparkles. Over the decades, wild sturgeon became rare, and the species was threatened. Fishing was then gradually forbidden, leading production to resort to aquaculture to preserve resources. This turning-point led to a more sustainable approach in which quality and respect for wildlife go hand in hand - a commitment shared by Le Comptoir du Caviar, notably through its actions supporting the WWF. Actions which also coincide with a more relaxed way of enjoying caviar, far removed from yesteryear’s pomp and ceremony. On a fresh baguette with butter or to embellish a dish, it is just as welcome on everyday occasions as at major events. This time, with no ostentation: each bite simply offers the chance to savour an exceptional product.

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