Christophe Moret conveys the serene strength of those who see the institution from a new perspective. Inspired by its heritage, he is determined to endow it with new generosity through more sensitivity and gourmandise. This chef claiming experiences and influences, fond of sauces and roasting, is, to say the least, concerned about the central role of vegetables. He advocates very lively French gastronomy. That's to say, unabashed and open-minded. "History shows us that our cooking has always been marked by crossbreeding, so why be tempted to isolate it by focusing on overdone technique rather than stirring emotion?" Wanting to create bonds, to trigger emotion and surprise, is perhaps the finest tribute one can pay to French gastronomy. It makes it long-lasting, crossing generations for good. Frontiers too, by drawing gourmets from all over the world. Christophe Moret simply aims for the best, exemplary taste, and quality. Ingredients come first. Loyal to his suppliers to guarantee a cuisine reflecting (micro) seasons and maturity, he sources the finest local products, as for his "feuille à feuille de foie gras" based on mushrooms from neighbouring quarries. With a ready ear, but no prescriptions or taboos, he dips into his souvenirs of travel for a detail making all the difference.

It is no secret that Christophe Moret has turned his taste for Asia into inspiration. He draws a large part of his modernity from it, proposing, for example, sea-urchins and caviar on a bed of bonito, smoked kombu, and his famous Chawanmushi, a classic "royale" worthy of Édouard Nignon, but with no butter or cream, offering umaminess and lightness worthy of today's cuisine, so highly-prized. "Enjoying oneself, discovering new experiences, does not mean going astray. On the contrary, being audacious requires you to know your products well, and to be open to trying others." Another reason for this one fond of iodine, acidity and everything that prevents us from running round in circles, to prepare his own condiments such as lovage-leek, kumquat-lemon, Paris-Shitaké mushrooms… "Rather than hi-tech cuisine, I prefer the taste of food simmered in a casserole and taking risks. Instead of vacuum cooking, I opt for pressure cooking of fish at low temperatures, cooking vegetables in wrappers, and roasting a pigeon still on its bones. That's what lively and instantaneous cuisine is all about!"

It also means returning carving to the dining-room, as for a lobster in a sealed casserole, or proposing two vegetarian dishes, and enjoying complicity among all the teams. A good restaurant is inevitably work executed in concertation, in the view of this Chef, a guy with a mischievous eye, a ready and generous smile, keen to set up a dialogue between kitchen brigades, sommeliers and the dining-room team… Who must have each dish on the tip of their tongues and are encouraged to learn from producers. As for sommeliers, they are invited to taste each dish in advance to propose the best pairing from 1,200 references of champagne. Domaine Les Crayères does not content itself with a 17th-century dining-room to embody the French art of living. Once again, it demonstrates finesse and a pioneering spirit by giving "carte blanche" to this Chef who anchors this address deeply in its time.